Pozos: The Magical Village We Can’t Get Enough Of

Pozos León Village
Gorgeous Pozos, León

Our first trip to Pozos (a tiny village in León, in the northwest of Spain) was a complete surprise. We stayed with Laura and Esmeraldo who run cooking retreats (Esme Tours) in their gorgeous restored stone house called “The Lodge”. We were so taken by the village, as well as Laura and Esme’s incredible hospitality, that we couldn’t resist another visit to Pozos this past summer.

This time we made a two-day stopover on our drive to Galicia, and this visit was just as memorable as the last. We cooked (a lot!), walked in the mountains or around the village in the afternoon, and visited the town priest’s museum– a former Pozos home that he has converted into an example of how people used to live. He has preserved photos and artifacts from a time when food was cooked over an open fire, and animals lived on the bottom floor of the family home.

Pozos, Leon
The town priest, and his awesome museum!
Pozos Leon
On the left, the museum’s “kitchen” and on the right photos from the past few decades.

Pozos is only a 3.5-hour drive from Madrid, but it feels worlds away. The small town has no through traffic, meaning that cars are few and far between. The old stone houses, many of them in ruins, are beautifully dilapidated. And the way that Laura and Esme have restored their “Lodge” for guests, is astounding– a mix of Laura’s Canadian roots and Esme’s deep knowledge of his hometown.

See also: Our cooking retreat in Pozos

Pozos Leon stone houses
The beautiful stone buildings in Pozos.

It’s hard to quite explain what it is I love so much about Pozos, but I think it’s the sense of peace you feel in a place so isolated.

Flowers in Pozos Leon
Gorgeous flowers.
Mountains of Pozo, León
The mountains of Pozos, perfect for hiking.
Pozo's gorgeous slate roofs.
Pozos’ gorgeous slate roofs.
Houses in Pozos Leon
Pretty restored houses in Pozos.
Sunset of the mountains of Pozos Leon
Sunset over the mountains.

Spanish Cooking Workshop with Esme Tours

Of course, part of what we love about Pozos is our time spent with Laura and Chef E. Their Spanish cooking workshops are incredible– the space, the instruction, the food and wine are all top notch.

Esme tours Pozos Leon cooking retreats
Some “simple” vegetarian tapas from Chef E
Esme Tours cooking retreats in Spain
Even pizza and wine is homemade! On the right, stewed oxtail and fresh beans.
cooking retreats in Spain with Esme Tours
Chef Esmeraldo!
Cooking classes in Spain with Esme Tours
Black paella (with squid ink) and seafood!
Esme tours in Spain
Dessert too!
Local peaches in Spanish brandy-- yum!
Local peaches in Spanish brandy– yum!
Sangria in Spain
And homemade red and white sangria to wash it all down.

We will be heading back to Pozos again this week (March 2017)– expect more about this place very soon!

Comments

  1. Laura, great post!

    Pozos is a remarkable village in La Cabrera. One of the most astonishing places in Southwest León.

    There is also part of the untold history of Roman gold rush hided in that mountains. Ask people in the village for Javier Fernández Lozano. He is a scientist who studied the roman gold works in the area an could show you the hidraulic system used by the Romans to extract gold.

    Enjoy your stay in Pozos.

    Best regards,

    Traveler

  2. “Just to say “thank you” We all enjoyed your delicious food and the evening was everything we hoped it would be. Thank you so much.“

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