A Place of Contradictions: Valle de los Caídos
I recently had the opportunity to visit one of Spain's most controversial memorials, Valle de los Caídos (Valley of the Fallen). Tremendous, impressive, and ominous, I'd recommend that anyone making the popular day trip to nearby San Lorenzo de El Escorial also try their best to visit Valle de los Caídos.
What is Valle de los Caidos?
Nestled in the lovely Sierra de Guadarrama, and located only 15 kilometers from UNESCO World Heritage Site El Escorial, Valle de los Caídos is a place of contradictions. Composed of a basilica, abbey, and an enormous cross, The Valley of the Fallen was commissioned by Spanish dictator Francisco Franco in 1940 to supposedly honor the fallen of the Spanish Civil War. In theory, it was intended to be a memorial to commemorate both sides, but many believe this to be ironic and that it was actually Franco's shrine to victory and a place of mourning exclusively for his followers. Objectors point out the greatly unequal number of victims buried in the valley-- it is estimated that of the more than 11,000 people buried there in 1959 (the year construction finished) a very small percentage were Republicans while the great majority were Nationalists. Since 1959 the number of people buried has increased to at least 34,000 (although some estimate it to be much higher) and the number of Republicans has likewise increased, as mass graves were opened in other parts of Spain and bodies were sent to be buried in Valle de los Caídos. This decision created heartache for families who have never been able to locate their relatives and have eternal doubt as to their final resting place.
Further Controversies
Another source of tension among relatives of those buried here is the fact that their loved ones share the site with the tomb of Francisco Franco himself, as well as with José Antonio Primo de Rivera, founder of the Spanish Fascist Party. In recent years there has been a lot of talk about removing Franco's body from the basilica and reburying it in a place of his family's choosing. The last Commission of Experts for the Future of Valle de los Caídos, which met on November 29, 2011, did recommend that Franco's body be moved, arguing that the memorial was intended for (and should be exclusively for) the fallen of the Spanish Civil War. Yet it is not quite as simple as the government deciding to move Franco's body. Ultimately, it is the church's decision as the basilica is an official place of worship and, therefore, the Catholic Church has the legal power to decide.
Additional controversy and a widespread source of misinformation regards the people who constructed the impressive monument. My research showed enormous contradictions among sources. I came across accounts of 20,000 Republican prisoners being forced to risk their lives constructing the monument. Thousands of prisoners were estimated to have died in the process claim these sources. Yet other accounts declare that only 243 prisoners were involved in the site's construction (of 2,643 workers in total). These prisoners, it is alleged, chose to be involved in the labor and worked in exchange for a lighter sentence, fair wages and benefits for their families. In an eighteen-year period fourteen prisoners were said to have died.
I was shocked by these discrepancies and the overall lack of solid information. Even www.valledeloscaidos.es only has a three-paragraph explanation of the memorial's history. That is unacceptable! After reading at least thirty articles about Valle de los Caídos in both English and Spanish I was almost as confused as when I first started my research. It is certainly a reflection of how Spain sometimes tends to ignore the past-- a hot topic today among Spaniards themselves.
Visiting Valle de los Caídos
We drove up the mountains to visit the memorial on a bright Sunday morning. Approaching the exit on the highway, we could already see the cross, the largest memorial cross in the world (152.4 meters), looming in the mountains. It is impressively tall and I was surprised that I didn't know more people who had been to visit this monument, being so powerful and so close to Madrid.
Certainly the first thing that strikes you is the size of the cross. It's enormous. Then there are the lovely views of the mountains. But for me, the real emotional impact and the creepiest part of the monument is definitely the basilica.
Entering the basilica is downright eerie. You pass through its heavy doors and into the long, narrow nave. Dark statues of sword bearing angels stare down at you from both sides as you slowly make your way to the altar. Being a Sunday morning mass was in session, making the irony of the place even stronger in my eyes. As we listened to the angelic voices of the local children's choir, we waited for the service to finish in order to see the rest of the basilica. As about seventy-five people exited the service, they shuffled past the fifty or so tourists ready to take their place.
This is where things get even weirder. Walking around the basilica were at least twenty-five priests, talking to people and praying. As we approached Franco's tomb we could see some people standing over it and saying a prayer (fresh flowers adorned the stone) while others tried to sneak in a photo as the woman in charge screamed charges of disrespect to these rule-breaking tourists. I kept my camera in its case. It wasn't long before a priest approached our small group of four. He made small talk and congratulated us for being well-intentioned, young, Catholic youth. As if. I honestly don't know if this man is really so naive to think that everyone who visits this site is religious, or if he was intentionally trying to make us feel pressured.
Regardless, we were a bit uncomfortable, and we soon left the dark despair of the creepy crypt. Back into the blinding sunlight, I was again struck by the contradictions-- was this place beautiful, open, and sunny, or dark, creepy, and claustrophobic? I'll have to settle with deciding that it is a complicated and emotionally charged place, and a little bit of both.
El Valle de los Caídos Today
So what is the future of this place? And should you visit? Well, the future seems to vary with Spain's leading political party. To move Franco or not? To exhume bodies or not? To rename the memorial or not?
As an outsider and only recently educated on this period of Spanish history I tend to think that no one should ignore the past. The memorial shouldn't change its name and instead of erasing its history, however painful, I think that it is necessary to educate and promote dialogue about the place's history. I believe it is essential to establish a few reliable and easily found sources on the internet to find more information about the memorial. After seventy years there shouldn't be such widespread contradictions and misinformation as the page one google results in both English and Spanish.
For me, moving Franco's body is also like erasing a piece of the past. As a non-religious person, I see his body as an important reminder of history-- he did some terrible things that should be remembered as a way of honoring those affected. If we forget all of the bad people and things in the world, no matter how difficult it is to face them, we are doing our future generations and ourselves a disservice. Valle de los Caídos has the enormous potential to educate people about the events of the Spanish Civil War, but the government needs to be able to provide basic facts and information about the site that are not opinionated and skewed.
Overall, I think that everyone visiting the area should make a stop in Valle de los Caídos. Despite its contradictions and the lack of information found at the site, it is truly an impressive place and worthy of some reflection.
Hours: Every day except Mondays from 10:00-5:00 (Mass at 11:00)
Click here for more pictures of the basilica's interior.
I really hope that this post conveys the care I took in writing about this issue. I checked my facts as much as possible so if you find any discrepancies or have a different opinion, please leave me a comment.
Bert
it was Pedro Muguruza who was commisioned to start work on that mountain,it was juan de Avalos who gave shape to the four evangelists and the four cardinal virtues , it was spaniards who erected this complex , or were there any foreigner among them? the necropolis is 100% spanish , therefore you have no voice or say in this matter
and instead of giving you undivided attention to what Lauren can , or Mr pinky can claim, please visit the webpage asociacion para la defensa del valle de los caidos , , you will find thereon ,many enlightening facts you are not acquainted with about how and by whom the valley was erected
Graham
Bert you are without doubt a total prick
Bert
TO MR Graham the moron, you just concern yourselves about your own monuments, if any , and we will concern ourself about ours, dont poke your nose in and you will not get it pricked
Ana
Who is being offensive now?
Bert
Problem with the valley is that you would like to have something like this in your respectives countries . and above all , I am referring to those from the UK ,since it is the biggest construction of the last century, and this peeves you a lot, and obviously,, you dont want us to have it
Bert
Is it the case that we tell you what to do with your memorials in your respective countries? no .we do.nt
then why do you tell us what to do with a necropolis that is ours not yours.? Do W e tell you what to do with these two blots on the landscape, called BIG BENG or liberty enlighting the world ? aka statue of liberty ?
of course not¡ just because we have no right to.
then why do you tell us what to do with our listed monuments? do you lose sleep over this_?
The valley is open and will remain so, even when you all are pushing up the daysies.
A s for pinky MR Mo,, or what he may call himself( sorry Mr taliban next time perhaps lucky) I would advise him not to crawl at the feet of these know -it all , prospective holidaymakers who like to give themselves a lot of airs
Mo
Most enlighened people (Taliban aside) I think that freedom of speech is a universal right. And yes I am pinky since I´m a girl.
Mo
Bert is an offensive idiot.
Jikan
Spot on Robey. Bert is wrong. As La Pasionaria said many years ago in relation to the International Brigades...."Your cause, Spain's cause, is ours. It is the cause of all progressive mankind.''
Ana
Well, now you put you4 hand inside the hurting wound. La Pasionaria? I think y' all a bunch of Liberals, who think Franco was a murderous thug but adore Fidel Castro and Che. And before you get your thoughts together I will inform you I am Cuban born.
Jikan
Absolutely correct Ana. Yes I am a "liberal" " a rojos" or whatever you wish to call it. Yes - history tells me that Franco was a fascist thug. Yes, I greatly admire Fidel, Che and Commandante Chavez as well.
Bert
we only need now that you gave us classes in our own history. by stating .... The memorial shouldn’t change its name and instead of erasing its history, however painful, I think that it is necessary to educate and promote dialogue about the place’s history. I believe it is essential to establish a few reliable and easily found sources on the internet to find more information about the memorial.
Look , lady, mind your own bussiness and let us mind our own
Robey Hopkins
I think Bert forgets the 40 to 50,000 people from 50+ countries, from all over the world, who went to Spain and joined the International Brigades and Anachist collectives to defend the Republic, in combatant and non-combatant roles, also the role of the USSR.
On the other side, the North African Foreign Legionaires, European Fascist volunteers, the Italian and German milatry assistance to the Nationalist/Falangist Rebels in troops and weapons, which without Franco would not of won.
My point is that the Spanish Civil War was fought by many nationalities on both sides, so any memorial should reflect that, and so Lauren Aloise has every right to an opinion, perhaps one of her relatives fought with the Abraham Lincoln Battalion!
,
Bert
you havent the foggiest idea of Spain,s history
Ana
I think so too. I think Franco kept the country together.
Bert
Dear Lauren Aloise
It seems to me that you dont have the foggiest idea of the reasons for the building this necropolis, because it is in the first place a necropolis , do you really know the meaning of this word? In the second place, Jose Antonio Primo de Rivera founded a party called spanish phalange , which has nothing to do with Mussolini,s party.
Evidently, many foreigners like you probably scorn and lash out against this monument and necropolis just because they would like to have something like this in their own country but they do not.
In the third place , if you have really explored the basilica carved out in the mountain , you would have entered a small chapel on the left of the altar where you can read , in memoriam of the FALLEN in the spanish civil war , not only, in memoriam of those who fell in action fighting on Franco,s side,
So apart from your slanted and biased views, it is not possible to read anything of genuin interest in your post ,. and what is more there is not any political symbol in the whole complex but the official emblem of Spain in the time when all this was erected , You also said that it is necessary to educate and promote dialogue about the place,s history, Well , this is something that concerns Spaniards only , not you ,
Lastly , to say that that book by Hugh Thomas is enlighting about the history of this place is more or less to say he knows Spain,s recent history better than many spanish historians which is preposterous
It would be a must to have a dekko at Mr Thomas personal political views and concerns first before preaching this book to the skies , Neverthelles nice try , Lauren , next time better¡¡
Kirstie
I've been near Valle de los Caídos but have yet to actually visit it. Now that I'm more informed about the Civil War and Franco, visiting is a must for me. Should be much easier to do if I'm teaching in Madrid next year, as I hope to do!
Disrespecting Franco by taking photos of his grave. Funny. I'd say his actions were, you know, just a bit more disrespectful than taking a photo of a tomb. It's amazing to me that so many people are still convinced he was a great leader.
I really wish Spaniards were more open about talking about their history. I swear from the reactions I get, saying his name is like saying Voldemort's name. I'd love to chat with older people about their experiences under his dictatorship, but most people are quick to change the subject.
Madaboutravel
Hi Kirstie, It is actually a tough subject to broach with old people, especially with all those that lived the Civil War. Especially because most of them have dead relatives (from one side or the other) and it is still today heartbreaking for them. My grandad is almost 100 years old and lived through all the conflict... From time to time he might say something, but not too often. I still wish he were more open about it... but remembering my grandma's recollections of the bombings, of the dead people on the streets and of all the repression after the conflict makes me sort of understand his silence...
Still, you could try visiting some home for Republican Veterans. There are still some that are alive and that would tell you loads of stuff. VEry interesting people 😉
Cheers, xxx
Pepe
Kirstie. I would have a more critical approach than the simplistic approach that is usually taken to all these facts. I come from family of business people. My great-gand-dad, as liberal democrat attorney and entrepreneur hated the state oriented economy of fascism and communism. He just believed in freedom in all areas of his life and hated any dictatorship. As a liberal, he refused to negotiated with trade-unions, believing that salaries should be determined by the market. A few days before the war started, he was put the first one in the list of people to be killed by trade-unionist communist militia, just because of his refusal to negotiate the salaries with the trade unions. The night before the war started he was given a tip, by a person he had defended for free before, that in a few hours he was going to be taken for a walk and killed by the militias. Aged 58 at the time, he took his family to Gibraltar and escaped that night in silence. He was lucky, because most of the people in the list were killed by the republican parties militia during the first days of war by the party and trade-unions militia. The border full of people escaping from the parties and trade-unionists militias, the British did not want allow the refugees to enter. An Indian family, with whom he had done business before, took responsibility before the British Authorities, took them in their house, and the British Government granted the family asylum. Most of the others stayed in the border shouting and crying afraid of the repression of the militias. A weeks later, when the subversive military arrived to area, my family went went back to Spain. Then suddenly the border was full of Republican supporters escaping from the repression of the advancing military and the Falange. The British did not allow the Republican refugees to enter as they did not allow the other ones before, unless they had connections with Gibraltar. As you can imaging, this liberal democrat great-grand-dad became a strong and thankful supporter of Franco for the rest of his live, even tough he remained ideologically liberal. Things are never that simple in a civil war where two halves of the population are will kill each other.
Mo
Interesting post Lauren and a tough one to take on. I can´t speak from the experience of being there since the day we went it was shut - if I remember correctly to consider what to do with it. However, I have a couple of things clear. It is a monument to dictatorship and to those who usurped power by force and as such stands as a painful reminder to those who were repressed. It was built by a dictator with an immense ego in order to glorify himself for posterity. A project of those dimensions is usually carried out by slave labour (or quasi- slavery) and I´m sure that was the case here. As far as I´m concerned, it´s all bad, right down to the religious denomination of the place, Catholic, of course, those same Catholics who colluded with the dictatorship and who continue to fight to make Spain a theocracy instead of a democracy. While it is a historical monument, it reflects an erroneous, incomplete and twisted version of Spanish history and as such does the Spanish people a disservice. In my view, Franco should be removed, the Republicans brought there should be given a burial in their own towns and the place recast as (what´s often called) a Centro de Interpretación Histórica in which the period since the Civil War to the Transition to Democracy is studied. This might have happened under the Socialists - though they had little will to do it - but it won´t happen now with the PP and its Opus Dei allies in the government, particularly now that they´ve silenced Garzón. Glad you brought up such a complex topic and gave it such a good analysis. Mo x
Madaboutravel
Hi Lauren,
First of all, congrats on the great post. You have documented yourself so well and I actually love the way you talk about your impressions on the place. But then again, I am a spaniard and I guess I'll never come to terms with what Franco did to the country. My only reason for visiting would be to honour all those republican men forced to work on the site that enshrines the dictator (because that's what it does, to me at least)... plus, it would be a very painful reminder of all the wrongs he did (and he did plenty of them, even though the republicans were no angels, at least they had been elected, when he never was)...
All in all, great post! If any time you venture to the Catalan countryside, please let me know and i'll give you some "insider tips" 😉
Jamie
Hi Lauren,
My little family and I are trading Boston for Madrid this summer (may-end of august) and I am so happy to have found your blog. Reading it is making me even more excited (if that's possible) for our time there.
Lauren Aloise
Hi Jamie! That's awesome! How old are your children? I'm also from Mass.-- Sutton in Worcester county. I'd be happy to give you any advice about Madrid/Spain and maybe we could even grab a tapa when you guys get here 🙂
Jamie
I have a boy and a girl, 3 and 2 years old. I'd love any advice you have. We'll be staying in La Latina, my husband will be doing an internship while we're there so the majority of the time I'll be on my own with the kids.
Patrick Waller
Interesting post and a difficult subject. I visited el Valle de los Caidos in 1978 and it was impressive and depressing. I ma not sure either whether the Spanish will ever come to terms with that part of their history as people say here.
The Civil War is interpreted according to which political leaning you have or your family.It is interesting to note if you speak to PSaniards about the CV they rarely have read many of the best and most impartial books on the war yet they normally have very strong views one way or the other. Ghosts of Spain is indeed a good take on the Spanish attitude. Hugh Thomas's The Spanish Civil War,although dated in my opinion is still one of the best history books on the CV; I remember it giving an interesting account of the story of the Valle.
Lauren Aloise
Thanks Patrick, I'm going to have to read some of these books, at least they seem to contain solid information from what people are telling me. Thanks for the recommendations.
Elizabeth Porter
Patrick, What does "CV" stand for?
Ana
Civil War. I came acroos this while trying to wrap my head around another subject I have read about but don' t quite get it. The other person bury there: jose Antonio Primo de Rivera, quite a fascinating personality. I asked my tour guide Why was Jose Antonio buried there? And she did not have the foggiest idea. Contrary to opinions here, I am not an Spaniard but of Hispanic descent and understand the culture and deep religious feelings Franco has. I believe he wanted to honor both sides' dead as all were Spaniards. He was a very strong religious believer, Catholic and thought as many of them Spain is Great, a patriot in his own terms and believes. He fought to rescue his country, other people think different and is allowed. The Cross was an expresion of his Catholic Faith, not delusion of grandeur. Many old fashioned Spaniards respect what he did, about unity, the current King etc. The thing that is a big dissapoinment is his Fascist inclinations, he met with Hitler, and almost jointed the War, but remained neutral. Spain' history is chaotic and now with the economic crisis, it' a heartbreak for a beautiful proud people and country.
Pepe
José Antonio is buried there as a victim of the Civil War, like all the rest of people buried there except for Franco. As to the preferential place he is occupying within the Basilica, this was just a political decision by the Franco's regime and most likely a personal decision by Franco. In the same way that the decision to bury Franco in the Valle de los Caídos was a personal decision by King Juan Carlos I, taken against Franco's will to be buried with this family.
As founder of the party in Government during the Franco era, the Falange, José Antonio was constantly honoured by the regime. He was killed and buried in the prison of Alicante when the war started. After the war, his body was carried on the shoulders by volunteer falangist walking from Alicante to El Escorial. Images of this march can be seen in YouTube. The regime had Jose Antonio as their most important martyr and there was a lot of propaganda about him.
toby
I was there over 30 years ago on a tour with the group of students in my program while studying in Madrid. I was an ignorant student then and just enjoyed the architecture and scenery. I have learned so much more since then. I too read that chapter in Ghosts of Spain(and have found it a difficult book to get through) and learned a bit more and with your post here, even more! You've written an excellent account and you're right, lots of contradictions. My opinion is that Spain may never come to terms with that awful period of history.
Liz
Really great post, Lauren. I can tell you did your research. I read Ghosts of Spain and the part about the Valle was really intriguing. It seems like a fascinating place, historically and religiously. I'm glad you're doing your part to share about it and its history.
Sam
Wonderful article! I have not been but had looked into doing a trip to El Escorial and here-most info. was cursory and did nowhere near the job you did covering the history, contradictions and ongoing questions. I think it is as essential to study and try to comprehend Spain's more recent history as it's ancient past, sites etc.
Lauren Aloise
Thanks Sam. Hopefully you get a chance to check it out sometime!
Christine
Lauren, I can tell your really put a lot of work and research into this piece. Spain's dark history is difficult to tread through, but you wrote about it masterfully. Great work.
Lauren Aloise
Thanks for the support Christine!
Amy
I've visited the Valle de los Caidos a couple of times and find the contradictions your mention really unnerving, but perhaps that's a fitting characteristic for such a place. Personally I find it hard to believe that Franco's intentions were altruistic; the mere fact that it is the largest memorial cross in the world screams of delusions of grandeur. But, like you said, no clear facts exist.
I, also, recommend that people get out to see it. I found the basilica, and in particular the relief sculptures honoring the branches of the military, to be quite beautiful.
I appluad you for such a well-written post!
Lauren Aloise
Hi Amy, thanks for commenting. I think the contradictions definitely make sense, given the place and its surrounding controversy. I am personally convinced that Franco intended it to be a means of gloating about his victory-- not to mention a monument that would carry his name into the future. I just really believe that 70 years since its inception people should agree on at least basic facts, and more information on the memorial and its history should be available to those visiting. I agree that some of the basilica was definitely beautiful... but always in a slightly creepy way!
bri
hey lauren! it's been a while since i went there (actually, it was during my EF Tour in high school), but i do remember it being a place of contradictions. Mind if i share this article with the teachers i work with who are deciding whether or not they want to add this excursion to their package?
so sad that i missed you when you were home last week! are you coming back at all this summer?
un beso!
Lauren Aloise
Of course you can share it! I wish I had gotten to see you too-- not sure yet about summer but hopefully in the Fall at least!
Cat
Have to admit, I am completely maccabre and really wanted to visit this summer, but the PSOE closed it off just weeks before we made it there. What's more, Kike and I were in Ferrol thisorming and walked by Franco's childhood home remembering this fact just this morning. Haunting, dire, but an important reminder of the past.
Lauren Aloise
Exactly! You should definitely check it out the next time you're here.
Jackie Clarke
Hi Lauren,
I found your article extremely interesting. My family are planning to visit the Valle next week (10.04.12) and can't work out if we will actually be able to walk around. The website says it;s closed to visitors.
Do you know anything about this?
I've many books on the Spanish Civil War and have also visited Guernica. We are also planning to visit Salamanca next week to check out the University for our eldest Daughter...did you by any chance do any studies there? As i understand many American students do.
Hope to hear from you....I am English but live in France
Jackie Clarke
Lauren Aloise
Hi Jackie,
As far as I know it should be open, however I'm not sure how much they will let you explore. When I went in February we were able to see the Basilica and walk around the front of the memorial, but we didn't try going into the Valley or around the grounds. Unfortunately I haven't yet been to Salamanca. It's on my list for places to see ASAP! I hope you enjoy your visits. Comment/email me with any other questions!
Lauren
Jackie Clarke
Thanks Lauren,
I would just ask if you know anyone who has been to Salamanca uni - a contact would be really helpful.
Jackie
Lauren Aloise
I don't know anyone believe it or not! I'd check out twitter or facebook for advice maybe, and if not there is always tripadvisor and lonely planet websites! Also, Christine in Spain recently posted about Salamanca, but I think she has only visited...
Jackie Clarke
Hi Lauren,
Just to thank you for your encouragement to keep going on our planned visit to the Valle, despite the website saying it is closed to visitors!
It was open and we were speechless and completely moved.
It was a bleak day which gave the setting even more meaning, if that's possible. The clouds rushed past over the head of the cross and gave me a deep sense of time moving on above the tragic history of the past.
Hard to describe to anyone who has not been there, but suffice it to say that I have only felt quite so overwhelmed in one other place...Omaha beach and the American Cemetery behind it.
I would thoroughly recommend Salamanca, jaw dropping buildings which are beautifully presented. Friendly people despite the terrible effects of the recession on their population of 165,000 with 36,000 unemployed. You have no sense of this as you wander around amongst the students and tourists.
Thanks again.
Jackie
Lauren Aloise
Hello Jackie!
I'm so glad that you guys went and that you enjoyed your time. It sounds like you had a really special day. I can't wait to make it to Salamanca-- soon! How long are you in Spain for?
Lauren
Jackie Clarke
Hi Lauren
Sadly, the end of the school holidays came and we had to go home. But the SW of France is a lovely place to live, so I'm not complaining.
Our next trip to Spain is planned for mid-June when we will be walking in the Pyrenees national park at Torla.
If you haven't visited I would recommend Cerler, a beautiful old skiing village set high above Benasque. A beautiful part of the world.
Jackie
Kim Helsvig
Not much contradictions here if you go to books written by the most respected historians on the Franco period. "Google results in both English and Spanish" is no good strategy, to say the least, when trying to find out about such controversial issues. Paul Preston is widely recognized as the world leading expert on Franco and the Spanish Civil War and he puts it quite clear. I site from Paul Preston's latest book "The Spanish Holocaust":
"The most extreme example of the exploitation of Republican prisoners was Franco's personal caprice, the gigantic basilica and towering cross of the Valle de los Caidos. Twenty thousand were emloyed, and several were killed or badly injured, in the construction of this mausoleum for the Caudillo, a monument to his victory which was intended, in his own words, 'to have the grandeur of the monuments of old, which defy time and forgetfulness'." (p. 509)
Anthony Beevor, another one of the world's most respected war historians, about the Franco killings and the myths promoted by the Brotherhood of the Valley of the Fallen towards the end of this video clip: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SdqHrzPhAY0